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Second Time Pays Off: El Porton, Duluth Ga.

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Living here in Georgia is pretty nice, but there are a couple of things I miss about living in San Francisco. OK, there are a whole lot of things I miss about living in San Francisco, but there are a couple of them that stand out when it’s dinner time. One is that I have yet to find a decent Chinese restaurant, but that will have to be addressed at a later time. The other is lthe ack of a good taqueria.

The seafood tacos at El Porton in Duluth, Ga.

No matter what San Francisco neighborhood you live in, you are never more than a couple of blocks walk away from a really good burrito or taco. Oh, sure, there are good boutique tacos to be found at Escorpion or Prickly Pear or even Twisted Taco. But out here in the suburbs of Atlanta, it’s tough sledding if you need a real Mexican food fix.

For example, according to one local survey, Moe’s Southwest Grill has been voted the Best Burrito in Atlanta. And every time someone brings it up, Jesus cries a little (that would be Jesus Torres, with whom I have commiserated about the lack of good Mexican food here).

So when I found myself at El Porton in Duluth the other day, I wasn’t getting my hopes up too high. I had been here before one night, when I had a chile rellenos, and had been disappointed; the chile tough, the batter thin and the cheese stuffing not really cheese. But tonight, I was in the mood for tacos, so I ordered three seafood tacos—one grilled white fish, one fried fish and one grilled shrimp—and one thing I was sure would be good; a 25-ounce mug of beer ($3.25).

Well, all reservations aside, the tacos ($10.99) were very good. All three came in steamed flour tortillas and were topped with shredded lettuce, pico de gallo and a spicy Veracruz sauce. Of the three, I liked the grilled fish the least, but just by an inch. I guess it’s all in what you order.

After looking up El Portol, I now see that there are four other locations in Georgia, five in Tennessee and two in Arkansas. And I’m pretty sure that in those burgs, El Porton is the best Mexican restaurant in town.

El Porton
2640 Old Peachtree Rd
Duluth, Ga. 30097
678.205.5042

www.elportonmexicanrestaurants.com

Post by and photos credited to Gregory Watkins.


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